Fes or Fez (Arabic فاس [Fās], French Fès) is the third largest city in Morocco, after Casablanca and Rabat, with a population of 946,815 (2004 census). Fez lies next to the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, at the eastern end of the plain of Saiss, bordered by. Fes is separated into three parts, Fes el Bali (the old, walled city), Fes-Jdid (new Fes, home of the Mellah), and the Ville Nouvelle (the French-created, newest section of Fes). Fes el Bali is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Fes is one of the four so-called "imperial cities" (the others are Marrakech, Meknes and Rabat), all of which have been Morocco’s capital at some point. Fes was the capital of Morocco at various times in the past, ending in 1912, when the French transferred the capital to Rabat. Rabat remained as the capital when Morocco gained independence in 1956 and remains as such today. For a true representation of the heart and history of Morocco, Fes is the place to turn from it’s geographical divisions to it’s cultural heritage.

Getting Around

The Medina of Fez is the largest and most complete medieval city still in existence. To enter inside its magnificent gates is to enter a labyrinthine and separate world. Inside, the winding alleyways and bustling souks are shielded from the intense heat or icy winds by towering riads and covered markets. It’s seemingly haphazard nature is derived from the composition of communities growing around each other through the centuries. The only way to get a real sense of this is from the rooftop terraces of riads and houses or from the crumbling viewpoint at the Merenid Tombs. The simplest introduction is by a guide but choose your guide wisely: the concentric circles and undulating contours can play tricks on your sense of direction! The souks are grouped by Merchants selling similar products though many alleyways represent a flavour of each of the many wares on offer in Fez from the indigenous blue & white ceramics to the many and various leather goods. El Attarine is the spice souk with pyramid towers of herbs, spices and dried flowers. The Nejarine is characterised by henna and wood-working workshops as well as being where wool and cotton are dyed. The Seffarine is where you will hear and see the metal workers. The Tanneries permeate the air of much of Fez and are where you will see a kaleidoscope of coloured vats where the ancient art of treating leather are practised. The smell is not for the faint-hearted and you will definitely know when you are in the neighbourhood.

The more modern part of the city is known as Ville Nouvelle, has a French influence and is a busy commercial centre. The “nouvelle ville” of Fez, or the new city, provides a startling contrast with Fès el Bali. Wide and elegant avenues are lined with numerous cafés and restaurants. The modern aspect of the new city highlights the economic differences of the suburbs and the city center.

Fez el J’did also houses many historical monuments and is much easier to navigate than the medina. The old Jewish quarter and the synagogue are found in Fez el J’did and you can see many objects that were abandoned by the Jews during the exodus as well as pretty extensive photo exposition. The royal palace and its’ famous gardens are also located in this part of the city.